A DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY STERLÉ, CIRCA 1955

Of stylised fern motif, highlighted with round brilliant-cut diamonds and one marquise-shaped diamond accent, mounted in 18K gold, signed...

A DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY STERLÉ, CIRCA 1955

Of stylised fern motif, highlighted with round brilliant-cut diamonds and one marquise-shaped diamond accent, mounted in 18K gold, signed Sterlé Paris, numbered, maker's mark, French assay mark, length 8.5cm

 

Sterlé

Son of a family of bankers, Pierre Sterlé was sent to live with his uncle, a jeweller in Paris, after the death of his father during the First World War. In 1934 he founded his own establishment and was supported by many large jewellery houses, such as Boucheron and Chaumet, for whom he was already designing jewellery. Sterlé quickly acquired both international renown and a clientele who enjoyed the exclusive nature and originality of his style. His reputation was cemented when he won the De Beers Diamond Award, a major achievement in the jewellery profession, for 3 consecutive years 1953, 1954 and 1955.

The style of Pierre Sterlé is characterised by its inspirational designs, artistic treatment and technical mastery. His recurring themes derived from nature, such as birds, wings, feathers, animals and various types of flowers, feature asymmetry and a type of baroque extravagance, contrasted with geometric forms and opulent arabesques, observed in the traditional jewellery of the era. Sterlé managed "to manipulate metal like no other before him". The technique used on the metal suggests dripping, freezing or etching, resulting in braided, twisted and flexible ropes of gold.

Despite coming from a family of financiers, Sterlé was a poor businessman, his perfumes and boutique were financial disasters, leading to the liquidation of his company in 1976. During the final years of his life, he became a technical consultant at Chaumet. However, thirty years after his death, the items created by him continue to have a strong following at auction.

 

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