A GEM-SET AND GOLD LEAF BROOCH, BY ANDREW GRIMA, 1963

Designed as a textured gold leaf, highlighted with pear-shaped aquamarines, blue sapphires and a diamond, mounted in 18K gold, with...

A GEM-SET AND GOLD LEAF BROOCH, BY ANDREW GRIMA, 1963

Designed as a textured gold leaf, highlighted with pear-shaped aquamarines, blue sapphires and a diamond, mounted in 18K gold, with maker's mark HJCo., London hallmarks for 1963, French import mark, length 5.5cm

Andrew Grima:

Born in Rome and raised in London, Andrew Grima was a popular figure at the glittering parties and events of 1960s London, his glamorous shop in Jermyn street almost as alluring as the man within. The self-taught designer is widely accredited with having revolutionised jewellery design of the 20th century. Set apart from his contemporaries by his lack of artistic or other formal training, he is said to have considered this a great advantage as it made him a pure designer, limited only by the bounds of his imagination. His flamboyant and outlandish designs allowed the precious stones with which he was working to shine in their raw and brilliant state, unconfined by typical cuts and traditional technical methods of production.

 

A close friend of Princess Margaret and her then husband, Lord Snowden, Grima produced a brooch of lichen cast in gold for the Princess. This caught the eye of Prince Phillip who subsequently purchased a ruby and gold flower brooch for the Queen, one which she still wears regularly today. Both of these pieces are similar in concept and design to the leaf brooch on offer in this sale.

Other well-known clients of the day included Barbara Hepworth and Jacqueline Onassis while pieces were also regularly modelled by the likes of Ursula Andress, as well as Jean Shrimpton on the cover of Vogue in 1965. Present day fans include fashion designers Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs.

Grimas contribution to the art of jewellery design has been highly commended internationally. He is the only jeweller to have been awarded the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design and his service to the industry was recognised with The Queens Award for Export. He also won the De Beers Diamonds International Award a record of thirteen times.

Today Andrew is survived by his wife Jojo and daughter Francesca who continue to run the business, producing a small collection of 20 to 30 pieces a year, as well as some bespoke commissions. Each piece is created by the same goldsmiths who have worked for Grima for over forty years and so the spirit and imagination of the great designer is kept alive and imbued in each piece.

 

 

 

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