2018-09-18-2019-03-21 --- 2019-03-21 20:16:13--18
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LOT :19
Estimate EUR : €600.00 - €800.00
Auction Date : 18-09-2018




Designed as a stylised bow of open foliate design, set with variously-cut diamonds of grey tint, within closed-back settings, later brooch fitting, mounted in gold, dimensions 5.3x3.3cm

In the sixteenth and well into the seventeenth century, Europeans sourced their gold and precious stones primarily from the Orient, with Goa being the central hub through which these transactions traded. Much of this trade was then imported through Lisbon in Portugal, where many French, German, Italian and Spanish jewellers based their workshops as a result.

Originally the preserve of the religious classes, exotic materials were used to create devotional material such as pendant crosses and rosaries. However, this trend began to change towards the end of the 16th century as techniques in gemstone cutting developed and jewellers discovered the dazzling possibilities of the cut and polished stones. Gemstones took on a new importance and prominence, with gold and precious metals being relegated to the role of providing settings and surrounds.


By the seventeenth century, the art of the faceted stone had been thoroughly embraced and perfected. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the role of jewellery changed dramatically as a result. A once figurative symbol of religion became the decorative display of the rich and powerful, in turn unleashing all artistic inhibitions and allowing the art of design to truly begin to flourish. At the same time and as fashions continued to develop, jewellery became a far more feminine accessory. Highly influenced by the popular fascination with naturalism which became steadily more popular throughout the Georgian era, abstract and elaborate floral motifs adorned almost everything.


Also exceptionally popular at this time was the bow brooch, just like the lot on offer in this sale. Inspired by the silk and velvet bows used to suspend pendants and crosses from the neck and bodice, the bow brooch, usually woven in an intricate filigree of gold and silver and highlighted with precious stones, emphasised the décolletage. It was usually paired with girandole earrings with three to five almond shaped drops, again similar to those illustrated in lot 21.


Aided by the discovery of large deposits of gold in Brazil at the start of the eighteenth century and the subsequent discovery of vast diamond mines there, production of exquisite jewels continued in abundance across Europe well into the late 19th century, with advances in techniques and fashions continuing to boost the trend.




Hammer Price : €600.00
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1. Estimates and Reserves

Estimates are shown below each lot in this sale. All amounts shown are in Euro. The figures shown are provided merely as a guide to prospective purchasers. They are approximate prices which are expected, are not definitive and are subject to revision. Reserves, if any, will not be any higher than the lower estimate.

2. Artists Resale Rights (Droit de Suite) is NOT payable by purchasers

3. Paddle Bidding (In Person)

All intending purchasers must register for a paddle number before the auction. Please allow time for registration. We recommend reading "Buying at Adam's" for first time buyers from our web site for more information. Please be aware that photographic identification by way of passport or driving licence will be required for new registrants, together with a secure valid credit card. This is for security purposes only. Potential purchasers are recommended to register on viewing days.

3. Buyer's Premium, Payment & Delivery

Buyers Premium:

The buyer shall pay the Auctioneer a commission at the rate of 20% on the Hammer Price plus VAT @ 23% (applied only to the commission) on all individual lots.

For example on a hammer price of €1,000, the Buyer's Premium amounts to €200 and the VAT on the Buyer's Premium amounts to €46.00, giving a total amount due of €1,246


All purchases must be paid for within two calendar days of the sale. Our payment terms are cash, banker's draft or cheque drawn on an Irish bank. Cheques will take a minimum of five working days to clear the bank, unless they have been vouched to our satisfaction prior to the sale, or you have a previous cheque payment history with Adam's. We also accept the following Credit Cards: Visa & Mastercard, subject to a credit card surcharge of 1.5% of the total invoice value, & American Express, subject to a surcharge of 3.65%. Debit cards, including Laser card payments, are not subject to a surcharge, however there are daily limits on Laser Card payments. Bank Transfer details are available on request. Please ensure that all bank charges are paid in addition to the invoice total, in order to avoid delays in release of the items. Goods will only be released upon clearance through the bank of all monies due.

Delivery takes place the day after the sale from 10.00am to 5.00pm. Uncollected lots may be subject to storage and handling charges unless specific arrangements have been made with the department. It is important to make contact with us in this regard to avoid any unnecessary charges. Adam's outsource all carriage & shipping requests to recommended third parties whom we deal with on a regular basis. This list is available upon request.

4. VAT Regulations

All lots are sold within the Auctioneer's VAT Margin Scheme unless advised to the contrary. Revenue Regulations require that the Buyer's Premium must be invoiced at a rate which is inclusive of VAT. This is not recoverable by any VAT registered buyer.

The VAT on buyer's premium may be zero rated for lots exported outside of the EU. This facility is available to non-residents and has strict guidelines in relation to availing of this scheme. Please contact a member of the accounts department to enquire further.

5. Absentee and Telephone Bids

We are happy to execute absentee or written bids for bidders who are unable to attend or can arrange for bidding to be conducted by telephone. Bid forms are available from our web site or you can leave absentee bids online by registering on Cancellation of bids must be confirmed 24 hours before the auction.

Bidding by telephone may be booked on lots with a minimum estimate of €500. Early booking is advisable as availability of lines cannot be guaranteed.

6. Condition Reports

The property is sold "as is" therefore imperfections/defects are not stated in the catalogue description. It is up to the intending purchaser to satisfy themselves as to the condition of a lot(s) before bidding. Condition reports may be requested in advance of sale subject to our terms of business. The report is an expression of opinion only and must not be treated as a statement of fact.

7. Conditions of Sale

All lots are being sold under the Conditions of Sale as printed in the sale catalogue and on display in the salerooms or via our web site