AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BALLERINA RING, CIRCA 1965

The square cut-cornered step-cut emerald weighing 4.93cts within an undulating surround of tapered baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, to a...

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BALLERINA RING, CIRCA 1965

The square cut-cornered step-cut emerald weighing 4.93cts within an undulating surround of tapered baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, to a trifurcated hoop, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 3.50ctscts, French assay marks, ring size L (adjustable)

Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Solid Phase laboratory in France, stating that the emerald weighing 4.93cts is of Colombian origin, with minor oil enhancement. Report number 20190603-273, dated June 3rd 2019

 

Columbian Emeralds:

Columbian emeralds are said to be the purest in the world, possessing a depth of colour which is unfound and inimitable elsewhere. These have been extracted from Columbia for thousands of years, particularly in the region of Muzo, an area that known as the Emerald Belt, made up of the Fura and Tena mountain peaks.

The first to extract emeralds from Muzo were the native indigenous groups who interpreted their magnificent colour to be symbolic of fertility, water, and strength. This tribe, known as the Muiscans, were amongst the four most advanced civilisations of the Americas during the period of conquest. They personified the Fura and Tena mountains in their legends, respectively being the first woman and man, granted knowledge and eternal youth by their deities under a codified set of rules. Their legend concludes dramatically, with Tena dying as a result of the devastation he experienced when Fura broke the rule of fidelity for love. Stricken with grief, Fura wept for centuries in mourning. Her tears are said to have become transformed into the devastatingly exquisite emeralds of the mountains that we see today.

Columbian emeralds owe their stunning green colour to their composition which is predominantly made up of beryllium, chromium and vanadium. The reactions between this elemental triad results in the rich grass green tone which Columbian emeralds are so renowned for, made purer in this region by their crystallisation within fissures of sedimentary rock formations.

Internationally, emeralds have long been representative of ones wealth, status and place in society, favoured by Cleopatra in the final century BCE. Beyond this, they were considered to possess talismanic properties throughout antiquity, specifically believed to protect marriages. Perhaps this significant duality of an emeralds meaning influenced Napoleon Bonapartes 1806 gift of an emerald and diamond parure to his adopted daughter, Stéphanie, on the occasion of her marriage. Known as the Beauharnais Emeralds, now held at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this parure thrust emeralds into the spotlight where they have remained since.

A 19.77 carat Columbian emerald designed by Cartier would later become the focal piece of Wallis, Duchess of Windsors 1936 engagement ring in her betrothal to Edward VIII. The precious stone was similarly used in the setting of Jacqueline Kennedys 1953 Van Cleef & Arpels engagement ring, further adding to the emeralds unwavering preferential use throughout history.

 

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