A GEM-SET AND DIAMOND 'NOVELTY' CLIP BROOCH 'LION ÉBOURIFFÉ', BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, CIRCA 1962

In the form of a lion, the eyes set with circular-cut emeralds, the muzzle with brilliant-cut...

A GEM-SET AND DIAMOND 'NOVELTY' CLIP BROOCH 'LION ÉBOURIFFÉ', BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, CIRCA 1962

In the form of a lion, the eyes set with circular-cut emeralds, the muzzle with brilliant-cut diamonds and the nose applied with black enamel, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, maker's mark for 'Pery & Fils', French assay marks, length 4.6cm

 

Van Cleef & Arpels were the first to recognise the importance of the establishment of a 'Boutique' department to present a unique and modern collection of affordable jewellery. These pieces were part of a limited edition series, produced to the highest quality in new and innovative designs. In comparison to the haute joaillerie, the popularity of specific pieces, led them to being made available for more than one season. Coinciding with the launch of the boutique in 1954 was the revival in the interest and appetite for charms. In comparison to previous designs, Van Cleef & Arpels created larger charms in gold and gemstones. While they had always been a part of the House's repertoire, the production increased greatly throughout the 50s and 60s with a proliferation of new designs coming out annually. The inspiration for these charms is vast and incredibly diverse, ranging from motifs of thatched cottages, sailing ships, and telephones to the infamous monuments such as the Eiffel Tower or the Vendome column. Amongst the favourites with the Houses' clientele was the 'Zodiac' charm first produced in 1958. Equally admired were the numerous animal figurines. The collectible nature of charms made these small creatures the perfect choice for the House to create different series. Iconic pieces emerged such as the Chat Malicieux lauched in 1954 and followed later by the Lion Ebouriffe (startled lion).

 

 

Ref: Sylvie Raulet, Van Cleef & Arpels, New York 1987, pages 142-143

 

Princess Grace Kelly was also very fond of La Boutique and collected many of the designs, including the famous 'Lion Ebouriffé' clip brooch. This playful collection which was created to offer more accessible, more casual, young-at-heart jewels to a new democratic clientele, found immense success amongst the French Riviera royalty and international figures such as Jacky Kennedy Onassis ...

For an illustration of Grace Kelly's similar lion clip clip brooch, a gift from Aristote Onassis: ref: Evelyne Possémé, Van Cleef & Arpels, L'art de la Haute Joaillerie, Paris 2012, page 195

A similar 'Lion Ebouriffé' clip was on view during the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Palais Galliera in Paris, in 1992. No. 192 in the catalogue, page 150

 

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