AN ART NOUVEAU DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1890

The scrolling openwork brooch set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds approximately 0.90ct...

AN ART NOUVEAU DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1890

The scrolling openwork brooch set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds approximately 0.90ct total, width 3.2cm

 

Art Nouveau was the first truly international design movement. It was popular between 1890-1910, during the period known as the belle époque. Jewellery was one of the most important expansions of this movement and the industry underwent a stylistic revolution.

Soft, sinuous lines and organic forms inspired by flora and fauna characterise the jewellery of this period. To decorate these natural motifs, jewellers favoured the use of smaller gemstones rather than larger, more dramatic diamonds as seen in the previous centuries. A preference for delicate colours led jewellers to experiment with semiprecious stones, such as agate, moonstone, aquamarine, as well as new materials like horn, molded glass, ivory and some metals. New techniques such as enamelling were important for the expression of colour.

The decorative femininity and elegance of this period could be beautifully described through pastel enamels, miniature gemstones, and curved metal lines, making jewellery the perfect medium to express the spirit of the Art Nouveau.

 

 

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