AN IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND 'ISPHAAN' DEMI-PARURE, BY MARINA B, CIRCA 1980

Designed with fan-shaped motifs of graduated oval-shaped cabochon rubies within collet-setting, each surrounded by...

AN IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND 'ISPHAAN' DEMI-PARURE, BY MARINA B, CIRCA 1980

Designed with fan-shaped motifs of graduated oval-shaped cabochon rubies within collet-setting, each surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds, with a pair of pendent earclips en suite, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 12.00cts total, both signed Marina B, both with maker's marks, French assay marks, with signed cases, necklace and earrings numbered, necklace length approximately 36.7cm, earrings length 3.1cm

A necklace of similar design from the 'Isphaan' collection is illustrated in Marina B: The Art of Jewellery Design, by Viviane Jutheau de Witt, page 130

As the name suggests, Marina Bulgari is the granddaughter of Bulgari's founding father, Sotirio Bulgari. Her father, Constantino was Bulgari's eldest son and held a central role in the family firm. As a young woman though, Marina had other interests, amongst them aspirations of becoming a mathematician as well as a keen interest in sailing. It was inevitable that she would succumb to pressures to join the family firm and by 1973, she had become co-CEO with her cousin Gianni.

Fuelled by an entrepreneurial spirit and an independent mind, Marina eventually left Bulgari in 1976 and struck out on her own. In 1978, she founded Marina B. For the next number of years, she travelled extensively and eventually opened stores in Geneva, London, Milan, Monte Carlo, Paris and New York. Creative Director and Chairman of Marina B today, Guy Bedarida describes her as "a woman designing for women".

From the late 1970s to the early 1990s, the voluminous, bold, and colourful jewellery of Marina B, was the brand of choice of famous movie stars like Sophia Loren, and other fashionable women of the period. Marina B designs use of colour in her jewellery was considered ground breaking at the time and what made them a product of the modern era. In her work, 18 karat yellow gold is matched with an array of coloured gemstones. Diamonds are a strong part of the designs but are used sparingly, often as a contrast to the coloured gold and gemstones and in pavé-set patterns.

The first series of the 'Isphaan' collection, appeared in 1980, which was inspired by numerous trips Marina took in the late 1970s to Iran. Her visit to Isphaan was a defining moment: "When the evening fell, light faded from the sky and it turned from blue to yellow, which reflected the two domes, of the same colours, standing out against the sky. They made a burning impression on my imagination" says Marina B. The Isphaan necklace, composed of a single or double row of Oriental motifs in pavé-set diamonds with central oval cabochon precious stones. This series of necklaces was also accompanied by a matching bracelets and pairs of earrings.

 

 

 

 

 

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