AN EARLY 20th CENTURY GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND PEARL COIN PURSE, BY TIFFANY & CO. CIRCA 1900

Designed as a delicate fine gold woven mesh purse enhanced by two cabochon sapphires on the clasp and...

AN EARLY 20th CENTURY GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND PEARL COIN PURSE, BY TIFFANY & CO. CIRCA 1900

Designed as a delicate fine gold woven mesh purse enhanced by two cabochon sapphires on the clasp and strap, with a seed pearl tassel and floral engraved closure, to a mesh-link wrist-strap, in 14K gold, signed Tiffany & Co., length 29.5cm

 

Art Nouveau was the first truly international design movement of the twentieth century and owing to its close association with the work of Louis Comfort Tiffany became known as the Tiffany Style in America. It was popular between 1890-1910, during the period known as the belle époque. Jewellery was one of the most important expansions of this movement and the industry underwent a stylistic revolution.

Soft, sinuous lines and organic forms inspired by flora and fauna characterise the jewellery of this period. To decorate these natural motifs, jewellers favoured the use of smaller gemstones rather than larger, more dramatic diamonds as seen in the previous centuries. The decorative femininity and elegance of this period could be beautifully described through pastel enamels, miniature gemstones, and curved metal lines, making jewellery the perfect medium to express the spirit of the Art Nouveau.

Louis Comfort Tiffany took up the study of enamels and jewellery more than 20 years after he established his reputation in the decorative arts. He was always eager to conquer new artistic terrain. As an artist who participated in major expositions of the day in Paris and elsewhere, Tiffany was well acquainted with European, primarily French and Belgian, Art Nouveau jewellers of the age, including René Lalique, Henri Verver and Philip Wolfers.

Louis Comfort joined Tiffany in 1902 and established the Tiffany Art Jewellery department. This new division was headed up by Julia Munson and was responsible for the production of highly imaginative and innovative Art Nouveau pieces. Tiffanys design studios and workshops forged their international reputation and established American metalworking and jewellery skills on a level with those of Europe. Tiffanys jewellery success was recognised at the International Exhibitions in Paris with multiple awards gifted to them cica 1900s.

After his fathers death, Louis Comfort Tiffany became the firms first Artistic Director. A patron of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts, as well as a founder of the New York Society of Fine Arts, his contributions to the field were later rewarded with his appointment as a chevalier of the Legion of Honour. Today Art Nouveau pieces by Tiffany are highly collectible and can be seen in the collections of many museums internationally, including at the Met in New York.

Collectors and jewellers worldwide seek out vintage Tiffany estate jewellery, such as the 14ct gold mesh purse featuring sapphire cabochons and seed pearls, because of the craftmanship, beauty and how well it retains value. The gold mesh is beautifully interlinked. The delicate floral detail etched in the frame of the purse is typical of the Art Nouveau style of this 1910 piece.

 

 

 

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