A COLLECTION OF RARE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY SPANISH JEWELLERY

A 17TH CENTURY DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH, IBERIAN ORIGIN, CIRCA 1690

Designed as a stylised bow of open foliate design, set with...

A COLLECTION OF RARE 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY SPANISH JEWELLERY

A 17TH CENTURY DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH, IBERIAN ORIGIN, CIRCA 1690

Designed as a stylised bow of open foliate design, set with variously-cut diamonds of grey tint, within closed-back settings, later brooch fitting, mounted in gold, dimensions 5.3x3.3cm

In the sixteenth and well into the seventeenth century, Europeans sourced their gold and precious stones primarily from the Orient, with Goa being the central hub through which these transactions traded. Much of this trade was then imported through Lisbon in Portugal, where many French, German, Italian and Spanish jewellers based their workshops as a result.

Originally the preserve of the religious classes, exotic materials were used to create devotional material such as pendant crosses and rosaries. However, this trend began to change towards the end of the 16th century as techniques in gemstone cutting developed and jewellers discovered the dazzling possibilities of the cut and polished stones. Gemstones took on a new importance and prominence, with gold and precious metals being relegated to the role of providing settings and surrounds.

 

By the seventeenth century, the art of the faceted stone had been thoroughly embraced and perfected. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the role of jewellery changed dramatically as a result. A once figurative symbol of religion became the decorative display of the rich and powerful, in turn unleashing all artistic inhibitions and allowing the art of design to truly begin to flourish. At the same time and as fashions continued to develop, jewellery became a far more feminine accessory. Highly influenced by the popular fascination with naturalism which became steadily more popular throughout the Georgian era, abstract and elaborate floral motifs adorned almost everything.

 

Also exceptionally popular at this time was the bow brooch, just like the lot on offer in this sale. Inspired by the silk and velvet bows used to suspend pendants and crosses from the neck and bodice, the bow brooch, usually woven in an intricate filigree of gold and silver and highlighted with precious stones, emphasised the décolletage. It was usually paired with girandole earrings with three to five almond shaped drops, again similar to those illustrated in lot 21.

 

Aided by the discovery of large deposits of gold in Brazil at the start of the eighteenth century and the subsequent discovery of vast diamond mines there, production of exquisite jewels continued in abundance across Europe well into the late 19th century, with advances in techniques and fashions continuing to boost the trend.

 

 

 

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