FINE JEWELLERY AND WATCHES

Tuesday 6th December 2022 4:00pm

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A RETRO GOLD BRACELET, CIRCA 1945

Of tank design, the articulated band composed of a series of slightly concave links and tubular-link connectors, in 18K gold, French import mark, length 19cm,...

A RETRO GOLD BRACELET, CIRCA 1945

Of tank design, the articulated band composed of a series of slightly concave links and tubular-link connectors, in 18K gold, French import mark, length 19cm, width 2.2cm, total gross weight approx. 123.30g

 

Following World War II, jewellery makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.

This bracelet is a classic example of a Retro tank bracelet, named after the tread of a tank. World War II greatly influenced jewellery design and styles, as women started to join the work force and choose jewellery that was more bold and durable than Art Deco styles from 10 years before. The alloy of copper is added to gold to create this rose hue.

The term 'retro' in the context of jewellery defines an era of design which reacted to the unprecedented cultural changes as a consequence of World War II. From the austerity experienced during the war, to the economic boom and steadfast reconstruction of new wealth following, no period in history has seen such societal shifts of this magnitude. Thus, each piece of retro jewellery is communicative of the complex transitional era, possessing an incomparably distinct air of history that is inimitable today.

Adorning oneself in jewellery continued to be in fashion throughout the war, remaining as a valuable source of portable capital in a time of uncertainty, though how this was achieved was changed. Rather than ceasing output, jewellery houses reinterpreted popularised 1930's designs, renowned for their joie de vivre spirit of creativity. The continuing interest in this motto of 'live and forget the past', marked an effort to bring a sense of exaltation into an era marred by war through fashion, in spite of a scarcity of materials. Jewellery design found influence in the avant-garde art deco forms of the 1930's, while complementarily manipulating the functional aesthetics of industrial design to create boldly geometric and sculptural pieces.

 

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Hammer Price: Unsold

Estimate EUR : €8,500 - €9,500

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