A RUBY AND GOLD NOVELTY BROOCH, BY MELLERIO, CIRCA 1960

The whimsical chick perched on its branch, with textured gold spiky plumage and circular-cut ruby eye, mounted in 18K gold, signed...

A RUBY AND GOLD NOVELTY BROOCH, BY MELLERIO, CIRCA 1960

The whimsical chick perched on its branch, with textured gold spiky plumage and circular-cut ruby eye, mounted in 18K gold, signed Mellerio Madrid, Spanish assay mark, length 4.2cm

Mellerio dits Meller is the sole surviving French independent luxury jeweller, and the oldest jewellery house in the world, spanning over four centuries and across fourteen generations.

Often cited as the jeweller to queens, the Maison is deeply rooted in French aristocracy, formally established in 1613 with aid of a decree granted by Marie de Medici to Jean-Marie Mellerio. This decree elevated Mellerio dits Meller's status in Paris, however it is the Maison's historic focus on design ingenuity and top-quality craftsmanship that has led to its longevity. From humble beginnings in the Vigezzo Valley of northern Italy, the Mellerio family would quickly attract a vast clientele of nobility, from Marie Antoinette, to Queen Isabella of Spain.

The story goes that in 1613, Jacques Pido, a junior chimney sweep at the Louvre, overheard a plan to assassinate a young King Louis XIII, son of Marie de Medici. Passing this knowledge to Jean-Marie Mellerio, Mellerio immediately reported the plot to Marie de Medici who handsomely awarded him with privileges to conduct trade freely throughout the kingdom. Such a decree, for 'services rendered to the Kingdom of France,' set the Mellerio Maison on the path to recognition which they would continually pave for generations to come.

In 1815, under the direction of Jean-Baptiste Mellerio, Mellerio dits Meller became the first jewellery boutique to open on Rue de la Paix. Their address has remained unchanged since this date, despite continued monumental cultural and social shifts, making the brand a true part of the physical and cultural landscape of Paris. During Jean-Baptiste's directorship, and under Louis-Phillipe's reign, Mellerio dits Meller became the official supplier of the Royal family.

Such royal patronage was similarly extended to Mellerio dits Meller elsewhere in Europe. In 1867 the Maison was appointed as the official supplier of jewellery to the Italian King, and later, in 1888, gained the same title to the Court of Netherlands.

Beyond historic significance, the Maison has been lauded for its constant reinvention, remaining at the forefront of technological advancements in jewellery and experimenting with transformable designs. It is this duality which informs the way in which Mellerio dits Meller design is appreciated, frequently showcased at renowned events such as the Universal Exhibition of Paris and the Great London Exposition.

One such example of this is the exploration of the intricacies of nature, paramount in Mellerio design since the nineteenth century. In 1854, Mellerio dits Meller patented a flexible stem mechanism for their jewellery to more viscerally resemble the delicate details of flora and fauna. The celebrated 1867 Mellerio peacock brooch highlights this, with acutely set minute diamonds onto the curvature of a spindly 'feathered' tail made of fine gold. This creation was exhibited alongside a rock garden tiara, later bequeathed by Queen Isabel II of Spain, at the Paris Universal Exhibition. The tiara experiments in material, made with platinum, marking the first time in history that platinum was used in jewellery design.

Operated today by Laure-Isabella Mellerio, the fourteenth generation to run the family business, Mellerio dits Meller remains a force in international jewellery design. The family name has become ingrained into the lasting cultural legacy of luxury Parisian design, which they have ultimately helped to mould.

 

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